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Frequently asked questions

What is Part P?
Is my home safe?
What is a periodic inspection?
When does a Periodic Inspection need to be carried out?
If I have an Inspection and Test done and it fails - what happens?Do I have to pay for the retest when the remedial work is complete?
Does all redundant wiring have to be removed?
Why should I have my old fuse box upgraded?
What Is An RCD?
Is it expensive to have extra sockets fitted?
Should I call you out if my light switch flashes when I turn on the light?
I've just bought a house and I've been advised by my mortgage company to get an electrical inspection and test. Can you help?
What's involved when I have Electrical Work Done?
What is bonding and why do I have to upgrade it when I only want a few sockets putting in?
Everything works fine and has done for years, so why does it need rewiring/sorting out?
I just want a socket in my lounge, so why do I have to have an RCD fitted as well?
When I have my consumer unit/mains board changed, why do you need access to all my sockets/switches/lights?


What is Part P?

According to Government statistics, each year on average 10 people die and about 750 are seriously injured in accidents involving unsafe electrical installations in the home. To help address this issue, the Construction Industry Deregulation Task Force recommended in 1995 that electrical safety requirements should be included in the Building Regulations.

Part P of the building regulations is intended to increase the safety of households by improving the design, installation, inspection and testing of electrical installations in dwellings when these installations are being newly built, extended or altered.

In essence:

  • A new requirement, has been added to Schedule 1 of the Building Regulations. This requirement, ‘Requirement P', has been limited to fixed electrical installations in dwellings, with minor works not needing to be notified.
  • A new Approved Document P has been published, giving guidance on ways of complying that are based on the fundamental principles set out in Chapter 13 of BS 7671: 2001.

The Approved Document includes:

  • Guidance relating to the design, installation, inspection and testing of electrical installations.
  • Guidance on types of electrical work that would not normally need to be notified to building control bodies
  • Appendices that contain illustrations of the sorts of electrical services commonly required in homes, examples of model electrical installation certificates, and illustrations of what equipment may be encountered when work is carried out on older electrical installations.

The Requirement
The Building Regulations apply when building work is undertaken. Part P will redefine building work to include electrical work on certain types of fixed electrical installation in dwellings. The new requirement in the Building Regulations, ‘Requirement P', is simply that:

P1 Design, Installation, Inspection and Testing
Reasonable provision shall be made in the design, installation, inspection and testing of electrical installations in order to protect persons from fire or injury.

P2 Provision Information
Sufficient information shall be provided so that persons wishing to operate, maintain or alter an electrical installation can do so with reasonable safety.

The limits on the application of the requirement is that Requirement P applies only to fixed electrical installations that are intended to operate at low voltage or extra-low voltage which are not controlled by the Electricity Supply Regulations 1988 as amended, or the Electricity at Work Regulations 1989 as amended.

Enforcement
Failure to comply with the requirement will be a criminal offence. Local authorities will also have the power to require the removal or alteration of work that does not comply with the Building Regulations.

Intended work that is subject to the provisions of Part P will have to be notified to the local authority. Traditionally, work notifiable under the Building Regulations is subject to inspection by the local authority's building control department (or other approved building inspector). However, to avoid the need for local authorities to appoint specialist agents for this purpose, it appears likely that building control bodies would be authorized to accept certificates of compliance (ie Electrical Installation Certificates) issued by ‘Competent Firms'.

Under such Competent Firms provisions, appropriately approved electrical contractors are able to self-certify that their work meets the requirements of the Building Regulations. In this case there will be a need to supply the relevant building control body (as well as the person ordering the work) with an Electrical Installation Certificate signed by a competent person. The alternative would be to pay a fee to have the work inspected by a local authority building control department, or other approved private sector building inspector.

For the purposes of Part P, the Government has defined ‘Competent Firms' as those registered under the NICEIC Approved Contractor scheme, the Domestic Installer Scheme and the Electrotechnical Assessment Scheme.

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Is my home safe?

*my consumer unit (fuse board) incorporates:
MCB'S (trip switches)
30mA RCD (large fuse with a test switch built in )
a valid test sticker indicating the intervals between tests. a valid test sticker is almost like an indication of an M.O.T like certificate for your home
IMPORTANT! green/yellow earth wire attached to your water and gas stop taps, these must be a specific size (10mm2) and must be connected to the consumer side of the tap adequately. THESE ARE CALLED MAIN EQUIPOTENTIAL BONDING CONDUCTORS AND ARE OFTEN OVERLOOKED BUT ARE VERY IMPORTANT!
Test certification valid for your whole installation

Obviously this survey cannot guarantee safety but is a good guideline, if you are unable to tick any of the check boxes then there is cause for concern and I would suggest an inspection from a qualified N.I.C.E.I.C test engineer.

We provide a free survey called V.I.G.C (visual inspection of the general condition) report, which will highlight potential risks.

If you would like to schedule a date for a VIGC for your home then please contact our us on 0800 6121067 / 0115 9783377 alternately you can contact us by e-mail via info@wiredelectric.co.uk

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What is a periodic inspection?

A periodic inspection carried out by a competent electrician is an inspection to determine the condition of an electrical installation. The purpose is to identify, so far as reasonably practicable, any factors impairing the safety of the electrical installation, and to make appropriate recommendations for remedial action. The electrician will issue a periodic inspection report (PIR), which is a report on an existing electrical installation.

The Approved Contractor carrying out a periodic inspection will check the electrical installation against the current edition of BS 7671.

When does a Periodic Inspection need to be carried out?

It is recommended that periodic inspection and testing is carried out:

• for tenanted properties at each change of occupancy
• at least every 10 years for a domestic installation
• at least every 5 years for a commercial installation.

The Landlords and Tenant Act 1995 requires landlords of properties with short leases to keep the electrical installations in repair and proper working order. The NICEIC recommends landlords arrange for periodic inspection and testing to be carried out by an Approved Contractor at the intervals shown above.

Periodic inspection and testing should be carried out more frequently for other types of electrical installations. For example:

• 3 years for caravans

• 3 years for industrial premises

• 1 year for swimming pools

• 3 months for construction sites.

On completion of the periodic inspection, if the Period Inspection Report (PIR) recommends improvements to the installation, ask for a fixed price quotation for the remedial work from at least three Approved Contractors. The improvements do not have to be carried out by the Approved Contractor who provided the PIR.

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If I have an Inspection and Test done and it fails - what happens?Do I have to pay for the retest when the remedial work is complete?

No, you do not have to pay twice. If we perform an Inspection and Test and there are non-compliant results, we will offer you a quotation to rectify the faults and include the cost [based on the extra time taken ONLY] to retest these items. However, if you decide to get the remedial work done by someone else then the whole test will have to be repeated and you may end up paying more.

SO - the most cost effective way to gain a 'passed' Inspection and Test is to have the test done, have any remedial work done [by the same person] and have the re-test elements included in the quotation - you then pay ONLY for work done rather than paying twice.

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Does all redundant wiring have to be removed?

When an electrical installation is rewired, every effort should be made to remove redundant wiring. In exceptional circumstances, if it is not possible, any redundant wiring must be permanently disconnected from any electrical supply so that it cannot present a hazard.

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Why should I have my old fuse box upgraded?

Old fuse boxes can be unsafe and should be replaced with a modern 'consumer unit' usually incorporating an RCD.

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What Is An RCD?

An RCD [Residual Current Device] monitors the balance of the live and neutral electric current flow. An imbalance occurs if electrical current leaks from a circuit because of faulty insulation or because someone has touched a live part and received an electric shock. If the RCD detects an imbalance, it switches off the electricity supply immediately - fast enough to prevent an electric shock being fatal.

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Is it expensive to have extra sockets fitted?

Not necessarily, although this can depend on access to the existing circuit [because of the type of floor coverings]. A typical example would be adding an extra socket to the opposite side of a room that only had one original socket.

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Should I call you out if my light switch flashes when I turn on the light?

Yes. Should any work be required, we can give a free quotation and very often we can fix this type of problem in a single visit to your home.

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I've just bought a house and I've been advised by my mortgage company to get an electrical inspection and test. Can you help?

Yes, we can do a full inspection and test, then provide appropriate test certificates.

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What's involved when I have Electrical Work Done?

As with all electrical work, safety to us and others is a priority - so first and foremost the electricity supply to your home will have to be turned off!

Installing new cables can mean lifting carpets and floorboards. Lifting carpets or floorboards in itself is not a difficulty, but problems can arise when you have a highly polished wooden floor, tiled floor, laminated floor or even chipboard floorboards!

Mounting electrical boxes will require drilling, and with that there will be dust and noise created! Recessing sockets, switches and cables in walls requires chiseling, and this creates noise and dust. After recessing cables the walls will need finishing - we can smooth them over for you [but I am not a professional plasterer or decorator]!

As with all of these types of jobs, we will cause the least amount of disruption possible and ensure that your electricity supply is back on as soon as possible.

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What is bonding and why do I have to upgrade it when I only want a few sockets putting in?

When we carry out electrical work, we have to ensure other parts of your installation are safe and comply with the regulations, so sometimes additional work may be needed, like bonding your gas and water stop taps if they are not done. You will of course be informed before work starts.

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Everything works fine and has done for years, so why does it need rewiring/sorting out?

Just because something works, doesn't mean it is safe and complies with the regulations. You wouldn't use hosepipe and sellotape to supply gas around your home, but it would work ok! And the same goes for some electrical installations that work OK, but if a fault did occur, it is more likely to catch fire than behave like it should.

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I just want a socket in my lounge, so why do I have to have an RCD fitted as well?

Most homes now already have RCD`s fitted, but if yours doesn't, then the regulations state that any socket that may be used to supply equipment for use outdoors, must be RCD protected. This is mainly for downstairs sockets only, and will make your installation a lot safer.

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When I have my consumer unit/mains board changed, why do you need access to all my sockets/switches/lights?

When you have a mains change, the whole installation must be inspected and tested, and a certificate issued. This means all outlets need to be seen and checked/tested and repaired/replaced if necessary. You will then receive a test certificate for your home which can be used if you sell it or re-mortgage.

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Wired Electric Solutions

Unit F Trent Park Industrial Estate,

Little Tennis Street South,

Nottingham.

NG2 4EU

info@wiredelectricsolutions.co.uk

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

© 2007 Wired Electric Solutions. All rights reserved. Registered in England No. 05241650

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